During the Bakumatsu period, the “Respect the Emperor, Expel the Barbarians” movement intensified across Japan following Commodore Perry’s arrival in 1853. Kyoto became the epicenter of this turmoil, and the city still retains numerous sites associated with the patriots of the Bakumatsu era, such as the “Yagi Residence,” linked to the Shinsengumi, and “Suya,” where Sakamoto Ryoma used to stay.
While many of these historic sites are concentrated along the Kamogawa River between Sanjo and Shijo, this article introduces a place with a slightly different atmosphere: “The Road of the Meiji Restoration,” a quiet approach path that winds up the slopes of Higashiyama, just a few minutes’ walk from popular tourist spots like Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Yasaka Shrine, and Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka. At the top of this slope, which is about 300 meters long, you’ll find a cemetery where more than 1,300 Bakumatsu patriots—including Sakamoto Ryoma and Nakaoka Shintaro—are laid to rest, as well as a museum housing many of their personal belongings. In stark contrast to the bustling Ninen-zaka, this area is enveloped in a palpable, taut silence. I’ll introduce this area in detail, along with its historical context.
Please note: Admission fees and opening hours are subject to change. Be sure to check the official website for the latest information before your visit.
Table of Contents
- What Is the Road to Restoration? Directions and How to Walk the Trail
- Kyoto Reizan Gokoku Shrine | The Graves of Ryoma Sakamoto and Shintaro Nakaoka
- Reizan History Museum | A Comprehensive Museum Specializing in the Late Edo Period and the Meiji Restoration
- Ryoma-zaka | The Road Taken by the Funeral Procession of the Patriots
- The Connection Between the Omiya Incident and *The Path to Restoration*
- Tips for Visiting: Summary
What Is the Road to Restoration? Directions and How to Walk the Trail
“The Path of Restoration” is an approach road located on the slopes of Higashiyama, just beside Kiyomizu-dera Temple yet slightly removed from the hustle and bustle of tourism. Originally, it served as an approach to the cemetery for patriotic activists on Mount Ryōzen, but it was given this name in 1968 (Shōwa 43) when the entire cemetery area was renovated to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Meiji Restoration and the 100th anniversary of the founding of Gokoku Shrine.
How to Walk
Get off at the nearest bus stop, “Higashiyama Yasui,” and walk up Kodaiji South Gate Street. Along the way, you’ll come to a fork where the road splits toward Ichinen-zaka and Ninenzaka, but don’t turn there—keep going straight up the hill. Just after you’ve climbed the fairly steep slope, you’ll see a stone monument inscribed with the words “Ishin no Michi” (The Road of the Meiji Restoration).
Since the slopes are fairly steep, we recommend wearing comfortable walking shoes. Another appealing feature is its location within walking distance of popular tourist spots such as Ninenzaka, Sannenzaka, Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kodaiji Temple, and Yasaka Shrine, making it easy to incorporate into your sightseeing itinerary in Kyoto’s Higashiyama area.
Kyoto Reizan Gokoku Shrine | The Graves of Ryoma Sakamoto and Shintaro Nakaoka
At the top of the hill, you'll see the "Kyoto Reizan Gokoku Shrine" on your left.
History
In 1868 (the first year of the Meiji era), by imperial decree of Emperor Meiji, it was founded as the “Reizan Kansai Shokonsha”—a shrine dedicated to the souls of the patriots who lost their lives during the turmoil of the Bakumatsu period—and became the first Shokonsha shrine in the country. It was renamed to its current name in 1939 (the 14th year of the Showa era). The entire sloping area at the rear of the shrine grounds serves as a cemetery, where more than 1,300 patriots from the Bakumatsu and Meiji Restoration eras are laid to rest, including Sakamoto Ryōma, Nakaoka Shintarō, and Kido Takayoshi (Katsura Kogorō), as well as patriots who lost their lives in the Hamaguri-gomon Incident.
Although the temple grounds are compact, many visitors say they feel as if the atmosphere changes the moment they step into the cemetery. One of the attractions is the panoramic view of downtown Kyoto from the graves of Ryoma Sakamoto and Shintaro Nakaoka.
Ryoma Festival
Every year on November 15—which is also the anniversary of his death—the “Ryoma Festival” is held, and a limited number of servings of the Shamo chicken hot pot—said to be what Ryoma was planning to eat on his final night—are served to visitors. If you’re a history buff, we recommend visiting during this time of year.
Visitor Information
Facility Name: Kyoto Reizan Gokoku Shrine
Address: 1 Reizan-cho, Seikanji, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture 605-0861
Phone number: (075) 561-7124
Visiting Hours: 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (Cemetery entrance opens at 9:00 a.m.)
Admission: Free within the temple grounds / Cemetery (Former Reizan Government-Administered Cemetery) Admission: Adults 300 yen, Elementary and Junior High School Students 200 yen
Directions: About a 10-minute walk from the "Higashiyama Yasui" city bus stop
Official Website:http://www.gokoku.or.jp/
Reizan History Museum | A Comprehensive Museum Specializing in the Late Edo Period and the Meiji Restoration
Across from Gokoku Shrine is the “Reizan History Museum.” It is Japan’s only museum dedicated exclusively to the Bakumatsu period and the Meiji Restoration.
History and Attractions
Konosuke Matsushita, the founder of Panasonic (then Matsushita Electric Industrial), believed that “from the end of the Edo period through the Meiji Restoration, many young people risked their lives to change the country and society. I want to pass this legacy on to the next generation.” With the cooperation of the Kansai business community, he established the “Reizan Commemoration Society” in 1968. The museum opened in 1970.
The museum houses not only historical figures from the anti-shogunate faction—such as Ryoma Sakamoto, Shintaro Nakaoka, and Takamori Saigo—but also Isami Kondo, Toshizo Hijikata of the Shinsengumi, and the last shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu—covering both the anti-shogunate and pro-shogunate factions. Visitors can view precious artifacts up close, such as the sword said to have been used to kill Ryoma Sakamoto and the chain mail armor actually worn by Isami Kondō. The museum also displays miniature models recreating the Ikedaya Incident and the Omiya Incident, making it easy even for those new to history to visualize these events.
Visitor Information
Address: 1 Reizan-cho, Seikanji, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
Phone: 075-531-3773
Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (Last admission at 5:00 p.m.)
Closed: Mondays (or the following day if Monday is a national holiday), during exhibition changes, and during the year-end and New Year holidays
Admission: 900 yen (discounts available for groups and people with disabilities)
Payment Method: Cash Only (Credit cards, etc., are not accepted)
Directions: About a 10-minute walk from the "Higashiyama Yasui" city bus stop
Official Website:https://www.ryozen-museum.or.jp/
Since the special exhibitions change every few months, you'll enjoy your visit even more if you check the official website to see what's currently on display before you go.
Ryoma-zaka | The Road Taken by the Funeral Procession of the Patriots
If you continue up the hill from the Reizan History Museum, a narrow flight of stairs will appear on your right. This is a small path known as “Ryoma-zaka.”
Origin
On November 15, Keiō 3 (December 10, 1867), Ryōma Sakamoto and Shintarō Nakaoka were attacked by unknown assailants at “Omiya,” a soy sauce merchant in Kawaramachi, Kyoto; Ryōma died at the scene, and Nakaoka passed away two days later (the Omiya Incident). Fujikichi Yamada, a former sumo wrestler who was serving as their bodyguard, also lost his life at the same time.
Two days later (November 17 on the lunar calendar), the bodies of the three men were transported to the “Reimei Shrine,” which stood in this area at the time, and buried there. It is said that the path along which the bodies were carried later came to be known as “Ryoma-zaka.” Today, Ryoma and his companions’ graves are maintained by Reizan Gokoku Shrine, but Reimei Shrine—the starting point of their burial—still stands in the same location, and many history enthusiasts visit both sites together.
The slope extends from Ninenzaka at the bottom to Shōhō-ji Temple at the top, running east to west. Since the slope is quite steep, we recommend taking your time and stopping to rest as you climb.
The Connection Between the Omiya Incident and *The Path to Restoration*
Omiya, where Ryoma Sakamoto and Shintaro Nakaoka lost their lives, is believed to have been located near Kawaramachi-dori and Takoyakushi in present-day Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto City. Although the original building no longer stands, a monument inscribed “Site of the Deaths of Ryoma Sakamoto and Shintaro Nakaoka” still stands on the site. Since it is quite close to Shijo Kawaramachi, visiting both sites together will allow you to experience Kyoto during the Bakumatsu period in a more vivid and three-dimensional way.
It is said that November 15, Keiō 3—the day the incident occurred—was also Ryōma’s birthday, which is why the “Ryōma Festival” is held on this day at Reizan Gokoku Shrine.
Tips for Visiting: Summary
- Estimated Time Required
If you plan to take a stroll along the Road of Restoration, visit the graves at Gokoku Shrine, and tour the Reizan History Museum, allow about 1.5 to 2 hours to see everything at a leisurely pace. - Clothing and Items to Bring
Since the trail features a series of steep slopes and stone steps, comfortable walking shoes are a must. In the summer, there are sections with little shade, so be sure to stay hydrated. - Combined Tours
It’s within walking distance of the Higashiyama area’s classic tourist spots, such as Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka, Kodaiji Temple, and Yasaka Shrine. This route is also recommended when you want to get away from the hustle and bustle and enjoy some quiet time. - Etiquette
The cemetery is a “place of prayer,” so to speak, where many people come to pay their respects. Please refrain from speaking loudly or touching the gravestones, and visit quietly. It is proper etiquette to take any trash or offerings home with you. - To Ryoma Fans
If you visit around November 15—the anniversary of his death—you may have the chance to witness the “Ryoma Festival.”
The area around the “Path of the Restoration,” which we’ve introduced here, is a valuable place where you can trace the footsteps of Bakumatsu patriots—including Sakamoto Ryoma and Nakaoka Shintaro—through both historical sites and historical records. Amid the quiet, dignified atmosphere—a stark contrast to the bustling crowds at nearby Ninenzaka and Kiyomizu-dera—take a stroll and let your thoughts wander to the turmoil of the Bakumatsu era.
*Please note that the admission fees, hours of operation, and access information in this article are subject to change. Be sure to check the official websites of each facility for the latest information before visiting.
Related PostRelated Articles
The signature dish at Muge Sanbo in Kyoto—the ”Ultra-Rich Matcha Parfait”—is absolutely delicious! If you want to experience the true essence of Kyoto, this is the place to go!
Have you heard of a shop called “Muge Sanbo,” whose signature dish is a parfait made with matcha that’s quintessentially Kyoto […]
"Rurouni Kenshin" Kyoto Pilgrimage to Famous Locations! List [Summary]
Have you heard of *Rurouni Kenshin*? Not only is there an anime series, but it’s also been adapted into a live-action movie starring Takeru Satoh, so you should definitely check it out […]
Who is Fujina Mi (Sannenzaka Main Store)? Her mitarashi dango are absolutely to die for♪
Have you heard of “Fujinami,” a shop famous for its mitarashi dango? Locals say this is the place to go for freshly made dango […]
A Pilgrimage to the Sacred Sites of "The Eccentric Family" in Kyoto! List [Summary]
Have you heard of the anime *The Eccentric Family*? *The Eccentric Family* is an anime adaptation of a novel by Tomihiko Morimi […]
Have you heard of “Minced Meat and Rice” in Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto? Is it true that it’s incredibly popular even though it only has one item on the menu?
Have you heard of “Hikuniku to Kome,” a famous hamburger steak restaurant in Tokyo? “Hikuniku to Kome” is a popular restaurant in Tokyo, and in 2022 […]