A Pilgrimage to the Sacred Sites of "Ikkyu-san" in Kyoto! List [Summary]

Do people in Japan know who Ikkyu-san is?

I’m sure everyone—from elementary school-aged children to adults—has heard this at least once.

"Ikkyu-san," famous for his quick wit, is a character from a story set long ago, but he’s well-known because he’s appeared in a wide range of media, including picture books and anime.

This "Ikkyu-san" was broadcast as a television series in 1975.

So, what is the true identity of “Ikkyu-san”—who is said to have actually existed—and what is his history? And where is the temple where he spent his childhood?

In this article, I’d like to summarize a pilgrimage to the sacred sites of Kyoto, a place closely associated with Ikkyu-san.

■Did Ikkyu Really Exist?

Ikkyu, a famous protagonist from anime and picture books.

It’s easy to assume he’s a fictional character, but he was actually a real person named Ikkyū Sōjun of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism, who survived the turbulent Muromachi period.

Ikkyū Sōjun was born in Kyoto on January 1, 1394.

He is said to have been the son of Emperor Go-Komatsu, who held a high rank, and lived a full life until the age of 88 without strictly adhering to monastic rules.

Because he left behind numerous stories during his lifetime, a collection of stories titled *Ikkyū Monogatari* was compiled in the Edo period.

And his quick wit became famous through picture books, kamishibai, and TV shows.

In particular, the story of the tiger hunt depicted on the folding screen is quite famous.

■What is the plot of *Ikkyu-san*?

A total of 296 episodes of *Ikkyu-san* were broadcast from October 1975 to June 1982.

This work is based on the many parables told by the Japanese Zen monk Ikkyū Sōjun when he was a child.

Here, let’s start by looking at the plot summary of *Ikkyu-san*.

Synopsis released from the official website

Once upon a time, there was a monk named Ikkyu, known for his quick wit, who lived at a temple on the outskirts of Kyoto.

Chikikumaru, the son of Emperor Komatsu, parted ways with his mother and entered the path of spiritual training as Ikkyū, a novice monk at Ankokuji Temple.

Every morning, he was roused before sunrise; he wept through his grueling training, and even though he longed for his mother, all he could do was call out “Mother” to the sunset sky. One day, at the foot of the bridge leading into town, Ikkyū came across a young beggar boy who was desperately pleading to go see his mother in Kyoto.

A sign on the bridge read, “Do not cross this bridge.” It was a sign prohibiting those whose homes had been burned down during the war and who had become beggars from entering the city of Kyoto. So, while the official looked away, Ikkyu-san boldly crossed the bridge with the boy.

"Since they said I shouldn't cross the bridge, I crossed right down the middle instead of the edge," he retorted! I wonder what clever trick Ikkyu will use to solve this problem this time...?

○Explain in a little more detail

The temple priest loves sweets.

I would always sneak a piece of candy and lie to the children, telling them that candy was poison.

However, as soon as the priest leaves, everyone ends up sucking on candy.

After returning home, the monk realized there were no candies and scolded him.

Ikkyu says, “I broke my precious inkstone, so I decided to die and took some poison.”

His quick wit soon became known to the shogun, and he was summoned to the castle.

Then the shogun tells me that at night, the tiger on the folding screen jumps out and causes trouble, so he wants me to tie it up.

So Ikkyu says, “Please chase the tiger out of the folding screen so I can tie it up.”

Then the shogun asked, “Do you think we can bring out the tiger in the painting?”

Ikkyu replied, “Can you tie up a tiger in a painting?”—a remark that left the shogun speechless.

■Ikkyu-san’s Pilgrimage to Kyoto’s Sacred Sites, Part 1: “Jizo-in”

Outline

Zen Master Ikkyū Sōjun (Ikkyū-san), renowned for his wit, was born in 1394 during the Muromachi period.

He was born on New Year's Day, and his mother's name was reportedly Iyo no Tsubone.

This was a period when the imperial court was divided between the Southern and Northern Courts, and it was the time when Hosokawa Yoriyuki—the founder of Jizō-in—unified the country under the Northern Court.

Iyo no Tsubone had won the favor of Emperor Go-Komatsu, the last emperor of the Northern Court, but because she came from a family of the Southern Court, she was banished from the court and ended up raising Ikkyu quietly in this area.

Furthermore, because the Ashikaga shogunate held influence in the region, Ikkyū—who had ties to the Southern Court—was sent to Ankokuji Temple to distance himself from those in power.

Since I entered Ankokuji Temple around the age of six, the only time I spent with my mother was at Jizō-in.

Ikkyu spent his childhood in this area.

Jizō-in is a temple also known as the “Bamboo Temple”; it is a truly beautiful Rinzai Zen temple surrounded by bamboo groves.

In addition to the bamboo, the green maple leaves and moss also take on beautiful colors.

Within the grounds of Jizō-in Temple, stone statues have been erected in memory of Ikkyū and his mother, Iyo-no-tsubone.

○ A Detailed Explanation of “Jizō-in”

The official name of Jizō-in is “Kinugasa-yama Jizō-in,” and it is a Rinzai Zen temple built in the first year of the Ōan era (1368).

It was founded 650 years ago as the Jizō-in temple of Lord Hosokawa Yoriyuki, the Kanrei of the Muromachi shogunate.

The Hōjō building was rebuilt in the third year of the Jōkyō era and has been designated as a Kyoto City Registered Cultural Property.

The main hall houses the principal image of Jizō Bosatsu, as well as statues of National Teacher Musō, Lord Hosokawa Yoriyuki, and Zen Master Sōkyō; Lord Hosokawa Yoriyuki’s grave is also located on the south side.

Another unique feature of Jizō-in is that it holds “music dedications.”

We offer a "Temple Piano" program here, where you can play and dedicate your performance to Bishamonten, who is enshrined in the abbot’s Buddhist altar room.

Of course, it seems that anyone—whether professional or amateur—who is serious about playing can participate.

When you play the piano, the sounds of insects, bamboo, and birdsong blend together, bringing you a sense of peace.

Address

23 Yamada-Kitano-cho, Nishikyo Ward, Kyoto City

Phone number

075-381-3417

How to access

About a 12-minute walk from Kamikatsura Station on the Hankyu Arashiyama Line

○Official homepage

https://www.takenotera-jizoin.jp/

■Ikkyu’s Pilgrimage to Kyoto’s Sacred Sites, Part 2: “Rokuō-in”

Outline

As a boy, Ikkyu is passing through the mountain gate of Shokō-in.

It is said that around the age of 12, in the second year of the Ōei era, when he began to display his talent for poetry and prose, he was listening to a Buddhist sutra called the *Vimalakirti Sutra* in this area.

Shakō-in was a sub-temple of Hōtō-ji, a temple founded by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and it is said that he attended lectures there.

However, Hōtō-ji Temple was eventually abandoned as a result of the Ōnin War.

Since then, Shokō-in has remained and continues to be passed down to the present day.

Furthermore, the mountain gate of Shikaō-in remains as it was during the Muromachi period and dates back to the time when Ikkyū Sōjun used to visit the temple.

○ A Detailed Explanation of “Shakō-in”

Located about a 10-minute walk from the Arashiyama tourist area is "Rokuō-in" in Saga-Kitahori-chō, Ukyō Ward.

This is a sub-temple of Hōtō-ji, which was founded by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu in the first year of the Kōryaku era (1379).

It is said that Shokō-in was the only temple to survive the Ōnin War.

It is renowned as an independent temple of the Rinzai school, and its karesansui garden—Japan’s first flat-style garden—is designated as a Place of Scenic Beauty in Kyoto City.

There are also Important Cultural Properties, such as a colored portrait of National Master Musō on silk.

If you visit Shokō-in Temple, you’ll find the green moss in Arashiyama is beautiful, and you can enjoy the flowers depending on the season.

As you pass through the temple gate, a cobblestone path stretches out before you; the contrast with the autumn foliage is a popular sight.

Address

24 Saga Kitahori-cho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture

Phone number

075-861-1645

How to access

About a 5-minute walk from JR "Saga-Arashiyama" Station

■Ikkyu-san’s Pilgrimage to Kyoto’s Sacred Sites, Part 3: “Kennin-ji Temple”

Outline

It is said that this is the temple where Ikkyu, in his youth, trained and studied Chinese poetry while he was a novice monk named Shuken.

The story takes place about 600 years ago, when Ikkyu, who had studied poetry and literature, would later come into his own.

Kennin-ji is a historic Zen temple in Kyoto, located in Gion.

This temple, known for its “scholarly traditions,” has produced many Zen monks with a talent for poetry and prose; it is said that Ikkyū also studied poetry here when he was 13 years old.

He also composed Chinese poetry and prose, including *The Collection of Self-Admonitions*, *The Collection of Wild Clouds*, and *The Skeleton of Ikkyū*.

○ A Detailed Explanation of “Kennin-ji”

"Kennin-ji," founded in the second year of the Kennin era.

Located in Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City, this is the head temple of the Kennin-ji branch of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism; its founding abbot was Zen Master Eisai.

This place is home to many National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties, including the “Folding Screens Depicting the Wind and Thunder Gods,” a masterpiece of Japanese art, and is therefore sometimes referred to as “the scholarly side of Kennin-ji.”

It houses many National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties, such as the “Painting of the Wind and Thunder Gods” and the “Sixteen Arhats” on silk.

At Kennin-ji Temple, you can try your hand at activities such as zazen and copying sutras, so be sure to pay a visit.

Address

584 Komatsu-cho, Yamato-oji-dori, south of Shijo, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture

Phone number

075-561-0190

How to access

About a 7-minute walk from Keihan Railway's "Gion-Shijo Station"

○Official homepage

https://www.kenninji.jp/

■Ikkyu-san’s Pilgrimage to Kyoto’s Sacred Sites, Part 4: “Daitoku-ji Temple, Shinjuan”

Outline

Daitoku-ji Shinjuan is located in Murasaki-no, Kita Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture.

This place is said to be a temple associated with Ikkyu.

As a sub-temple of Daitoku-ji, the head temple of the Rinzai school, it has a deep connection to this place because Ikkyu was a Rinzai monk.

At that time, as the Gozan sect (Kennin-ji, Tōfuku-ji, Manju-ji, Shōkoku-ji, and Tenryū-ji) was gaining influence alongside the shogunate, Daitoku-ji focused on zazen practice and distanced itself from political power.

And so, having attained enlightenment, Ikkyū left the renowned monk Kasō Sōdon and began traveling from place to place.

○ A Detailed Explanation of “Daitoku-ji Shinju-an”

Shinju-an is a sub-temple of Daitoku-ji, the head temple of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism.

It is said to have been built around 1429, and the temple is closed to the public except during special open house events.

In 2018, the sliding door paintings in the abbot’s quarters were replaced for the first time in 400 years and opened to the public, making the temple even more famous than before.

Be sure to stop by and pay your respects during the special open house.

Address

52 Murasakino Daitokuji-cho, Kita Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture

Phone number

075-492-4991

How to access

About a 10-minute walk from the “Daitokuji-mae” city bus stop

■Ikkyu’s Pilgrimage to Kyoto’s Sacred Sites, Part 5: “Shuon-an Ikkyu-ji”

Outline

Of all the temples associated with Ikkyu, the most famous is “Shuon-an Ikkyu-ji.”

This is the temple where Ikkyu spent his final days.

It was originally a temple called Myōshō-ji, and it is said to have been built when a Rinzai monk named Minamiura Shōmei returned from China.

Although it was later devastated by war, Ikkyū rebuilt it when he was 81 years old, and under the name Shūon-an, he lived there from the age of 60 until 1481, when he was 88—the final years of his life.

It is said that Ikkyu, having escaped the turmoil of the Onin War, found peace in the tranquil scenery of the firewood area.

It is said that once he reached his 70s, he began living at this temple with his mistress, Shinnyo, by his side.

The temple was named Shūon-an to express gratitude for the master’s kindness.

Since Ikkyu’s death, the temple has also become famous under the name Ikkyu-ji.

Since the Mausoleum of Prince Sōjun is located to the right of the South Garden of the Hōjō Garden, you can also see Ikkyū’s grave here.

○ A Detailed Explanation of “Shuon-an Ikkyu-ji”

"Shuon-an," a temple of the Rinzai School's Daitoku-ji branch, located in Kyotanabe City, Kyoto Prefecture.

This temple was founded sometime after 1288 and is the final resting place of Ikkyū Sōjun.

This place is famous not only as the temple where Ikkyu lies buried, but also as a popular spot for viewing green autumn leaves and fall foliage.

That is why many visitors come here when autumn arrives.

You’ll be captivated by the beautiful surroundings—from the moss in summer to the vibrant autumn foliage, not to mention the fresh mountain air and the chirping of birds.

Address

102 Takisato-no-uchi, Kyotanabe City, Kyoto Prefecture

Phone number

0774-62-0193

How to access

About a 25-minute walk from Kintetsu “Shin-Tanabe Station”

○Official homepage

http://www.ikkyuji.org/

■Ikkyu-san’s Pilgrimage to Kyoto’s Sacred Sites, Part 6: “Kinkaku-ji”

Outline

Ashikaga Yoshimitsu is the famous figure who built the Golden Pavilion.

He was a great man who unified the Northern and Southern Dynasties and was even called the "King of Japan" by China.

There was a scene where Ikkyu tried to set fire to the Golden Pavilion right in front of that person.

You can see that scene in Episode 102 of the anime "Ikkyu-san."

It was really striking to see Ikkyu-san happily trying to set the fire, even as the Shogun was doing his best to stop him, wasn’t it?

Watching the anime might give you a glimpse into another side of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu.

○Detailed explanation of the "Golden Pavilion".

Although this temple is commonly known as “Kinkaku-ji,” its official name is Rokuon-ji.

Rokuon-ji is a temple of the Rinzai School’s Shōkoku-ji branch located in Kinkaku-ji-chō, Kita Ward, Kyoto City, and is one of the sub-temples of Shōkoku-ji.

Because the reliquary hall, the “Golden Pavilion,” is particularly famous, the temple has come to be affectionately known as “Kinkaku-ji.”

It was founded in 1397 and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994.

There are many cultural treasures here, including a wooden standing statue of Fudō Myōō, the wall paintings in the Great Study Hall, and a colored portrait of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu on silk, so please be sure to take a look.

Address

1 Kinkakuji-cho, Kita-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto

Phone number

075-461-0013

How to access

Get off at the "Kinkakuji-michi" bus stop; it's about a 2-minute walk from there.

○Official homepage

https://www.shokoku-ji.jp/kinkakuji/

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■ Summary

How was it?

In this article, we’ve compiled a list of the “Ikkyu-san” pilgrimage sites in Kyoto.

Although Ikkyu is well-known from anime and picture books, if we go back in time, he was a real person named “Ikkyu Sōjun.”

He is known as a monk with a quick wit, and the temple where he spent his childhood and later years is located in Kyoto.

Why not plan a trip to Kyoto and pay a visit to Ikkyu-san?