Pure coffee shops, candy bars, rowing boats? 4 retro spots to visit in Kyoto

When I visited Tsukiji, a pure coffee shop in Shijo-Kawaramachi, one of Kyoto's most popular areas, I was surprised to find that most of its customers are young people in their 20s!
Did you know that "old-fashioned spots" unknown to the young people of 2025 are being revitalized by the "pure coffee shop boom"?
Kyoto has many retro and cozy places that never go out of style.
So, we will guide you to spots where you can have a good old time, which we would like to make the theme of your next visit to Kyoto!

Table of Contents

■Francois coffee shop

■Kotogase Tea House

■Dong Hwa Catering

■Fune Hashiya

■ Summary

■Francois coffee shop

First of all, I'd like to introduce you to a pure coffee shop that can't be missed as a royal roadside coffee shop in Kyoto."Francois Coffee Room."。
This restaurant, tucked away along the Takase River in Shijo, was opened in September 1934 in a renovated machiya (townhouse) down the street from Kiyamachi in Shijo, Kyoto.
At the time, people were in the midst of war and living in a difficult and inconvenient environment, but this coffee shop was an "oasis of freedom" where people gathered to talk about the future, literature, art, and peace.
This culture continues to be passed down to the present day in the form of coffee shops, which are visited by many people every day.
The restaurant is also named after the painter Francois Millet.

○Francois Coffee Room Attraction

1. Lovely interior

Francois Café is no ordinary coffee shop.
The interior of the restaurant, which looks like the inside of a luxury cruise ship, has an elegant Italian Baroque tone. As it should be, it is modeled after the halls of the Conte Verde (Green Count), a large cruise ship.
It was designed by Alessandro Benchibeni, an Italian who was a student at Kyoto University at the time, painter Shiro Takagi, and his friend Donald Keene. In 2003, it became the first coffee shop in Japan to be designated a Tangible Cultural Property (building) of Japan. It was also featured in "Modern Architecture of Kyoto" held at the Kyocera Museum of Art in 2021.
The impressive arched stained-glass windows are the work of Shiro Takagi, and the restaurant's rainbow-colored light serenely shines through, adding to the gorgeous atmosphere with its white domed ceiling, reproductions of the Mona Lisa, antique-looking lamps, and chairs made of red velvet.
When it first opened, a large phonograph and many records were placed behind the cash register counter.
The interior has remained largely intact since its extensive renovation in 1941.
Recommended for those who want to spend an extraordinary time while listening to quiet classical music.

2. Taste is also popular

The Francois coffee shop is popular for its toast, cakes, and ice cream. Vanilla ice cream is available with a choice of chocolate or caramel sauce.
Iced coffee is also available with a choice of milk or cream.
The cakes are simple in appearance, yet full of flavor, and all are elegant in taste.

The menu is as follows
The "Cake of the Day" is one of several cakes to choose from.

[Coffee]
Coffee (fresh cream, black)
American Coffee
Café au lait
Wiener Coffee
Brandy coffee (Hennessy)
Irish Coffee
Coffee Float

[Tea].
Black tea (straight, milk, lemon)
Apple Tea (Fauchon)
Royal milk tea
Curacao tea (Grand, Marnier)
Whisky tea (Scotch)
Tea Float

Beverages]
Cocoa (hot or iced)
Cocoa Float
Milk (hot or iced)
Tomato juice
Yuzu juice (hot or iced)
LaFrance juice (Yamagata Prefecture)
Kyoho grape juice (Nagano Prefecture)
Ginger Ale
Yuzu Squash
Cream Soda

[Sweets]
Cake set (coffee or tea)
Cake of the Day
Vanilla ice cream
Coffee jelly
Wine jelly
Special pudding

Toast and Sandwiches
Cinnamon sugar toast with salad
Cheese toast with salad
Ham and cheese toast with salad
Pizza toast with salad
Egg Sandwich
Vegetable Sandwich
Ham sandwich

Western liquor
Beer (Ebisu Premium)
Stout beer (Guinness)
Whiskey (Old, Par)
Brandy (Hennessy)

○Review of Francois Coffee Room

Take a look at the reviews of François coffee shop.

Classical and cultural asset cafe! You will be healed at a coffee shop in Kyoto full of Showa-era retro.

It is about 4-5 minutes from Shijo Gion Station on the Keihan Electric Railway. Many things can be seen, including the interior as it was in those days. The baroque furniture is truly retro.

The vanilla ice cream is delicious. Rather than refreshing milk, the vanilla ice cream is chunky and thick. The way of eating it with sweet chocolate sauce was retro and conversely fresh.

I had always wanted to try coffee and cake here. It was my first visit to the store, but it was full of people and very popular. It was a good memory.

I ordered the rare cheesecake with coffee and a choice of three types of cheesecake: rare cheesecake, pear tart, or baked cheesecake. The rare cheesecake made with fresh Danish cheese had just the right amount of sweetness, tartness, and richness from the cheese.

The menu is delicious and every item on the menu goes well with coffee. It was overwhelmingly upscale and it was as if we had time-traveled to another world.

A coffee shop where young artists, musicians, and thinkers gathered. You can have the best time at a coffee shop representing the Kyoto Showa period.

It was the first coffee shop building in Japan to be designated as a national tangible cultural property. The cakes and coffee were delicious.

This is a coffee shop because it is in Kyoto. But inside, the space is as if time has been turned back. I was fascinated by the retro coffee shop.

The cakes and toast are all delicious. Many customers must come for the look and the taste.

It is probably one of the oldest coffee shops in Kyoto. The luxurious interior is absolutely beautiful.

Wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

■Francois coffee shop
Address: 184 Funato-cho, Shijo-sagaru, Nishikiyacho-Dori, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto City
Access: about 5 minutes from "Gion-Shijo Station" of Keihan Electric Railway

HP:https://www.francois1934.com/

■Kotogase Tea House

Next is a fun spot for those in the know even in Arashiyama, a classic sightseeing spot.Kotogase Chaya。
It looks and feels far from the fashionable atmosphere that young people might like, but... it has a history of more than 100 years, is popularly known as a "convenience store on board," and has been featured in numerous media outlets.
It was founded in 1919 and has a tradition of over 100 years, and the current owner is the third generation. The restaurant looks like a festival stall and offers reasonably priced food and beverages, which can be enjoyed while admiring the view of Arashiyama! Many people visit the restaurant to enjoy the view of Arashiyama.

Attractions of Kotogase Tea House

1. The journey to the store is enjoyable!

Kotogase Tea House has become a popular place to enjoy the path to get to the restaurant.
First, to get to the store, get off at Arashiyama Station on the Keifuku Electric Railway Arashiyama-moto Line. When you get off at Arashiyama Station, the area is already crowded with tourists, and if you go to Watarigetsukyo Bridge, you will see many foreign tourists. Enjoy the atmosphere of THE sightseeing spot with its ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurants), ryokan (Japanese inns), souvenir shops, and cafes.
It takes less than 10 minutes to walk along the Wataratsuki Bridge, and after about 400 meters, you will arrive near the store. The walk up to this point is also enjoyable as it feels like sightseeing in Arashiyama, but it is from here that it becomes especially enjoyable.
In fact, to get to Kotogase Teahouse, you have to take a rowboat! You have to come on a rowboat to get to the teahouse!
The store here operates on the other side of the river, so the main feature is that you row your own boat.
You will feel a pleasant sense of fatigue before reaching the restaurant and a sense of accomplishment after crossing the river.

2. You can enjoy a la carte dishes while looking out over the opposite shore.

You can move from the boat to an open tatami room where you can have a la carte dishes, etc. Arashiyama may seem like an expensive place to visit, but you will be glad to know that it is reasonably priced. Dishes such as squid yaki, yakisoba, and nabeyaki udon are available, as well as Kyoto-style sweet dishes such as mitarashi dango and warabimochi (bracken rice cake).
Alcoholic beverages such as canned beer and chuhai lemon are also available so that everyone in the family can enjoy themselves. While savoring the food, you will surely be healed by the view of the nature of Arashiyama and the beauty of the valley on the other side of the river.
Please take your drinks, snacks and sweets and relax on a sunny day.

Wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

■Kotogase Tea House
Address: 11 Ranzanmotorokuyama-cho, Nishikyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
Access: Approx. 10 minutes walk from "Arashiyama Station" of Keifuku Electric Railway Ranzanmoto Line

HP:https://www.hozugawakudari.jp/kotogase

■Dong Hwa Catering

Have you ever walked along the Shijo Ohashi Bridge, which crosses the Kamo River near Shijo Kawaramachi, one of Kyoto's most popular shopping areas? Did you know that there is a building at the foot of the bridge that exudes a distinctly retro atmosphere?
The identity of this is what we are about to introduce.Donghua Catering.It is.
As you may somewhat guess from the name, "Donghua Catering" is a restaurant where you can enjoy authentic Beijing cuisine. It is one of the most famous Beijing restaurants in Kyoto and well known among the locals.
Private rooms, general seating, and banquet rooms are available here, and all rooms have a retro atmosphere. In this space, you can enjoy a course meal or a la carte dishes such as shrimp chili, yakibuta, and hapobo chai.
There are also take-out and online stores, so you can enjoy authentic Chinese food without having to go to a restaurant, but if you are here for sightseeing, there is something you should definitely visit and experience!
What is it? It is the oldest existing thing in Japan...!

○Donghua Catering Attraction

1. The oldest elevator in Japan is amazing!

Donghua Catering opened in 1926.
Elevator is famous for its reasonably priced yet authentic Beijing cuisine, and is well known for its numerous media appearances.
The working elevator that still carries customers in this restaurant is the oldest bellows elevator in Japan.
The elevator, with its retro feel, is as uplifting as if you were riding on an attraction.
Inside the red-carpeted elevator is an unfamiliar sign that reads "200 LBS. You can tell from this that it is made in a foreign country. LBS means pounds, and it is the Japanese equivalent of a weight display.
There is a golden round button on the floor, and stepping on this button unlocks the outer door.
Above the elevator door is a somewhat nostalgic clock hand that shows the floor number of the floor. The uneven spacing between the numbers is due to the different heights of each floor.
When you get into the elevator, the staff manually closes the bellows doors with a clang, clang, clang, and the sound also evokes a sense of time.
The oldest elevator in Japan, in operation for more than 80 years, is still operated by staff and carries many customers.
When you visit the restaurant, experience its history and ride.

2. The romantic exterior and interior are terrific!

The building, built by an architect named Vories, is very particular about its exterior, even before you enter the restaurant.
Even those who have crossed the Shijo Ohashi Bridge must have wondered at least once, "What in the world is that building? You must have been taken aback by it at least once.
The delicate carved decorations are based on seafood and mountain foods, and the building itself is designated as a registered tangible cultural property.
It has been featured in animations, movies, and dramas, so please take the time to look at it at least once.
The restaurant's interior is also sprinkled with attention to detail.
The modern architecture of the interior is so period-inspired that it makes you feel as if you have arrived at a museum.
Enjoy not only the food, but also the interior design.

Wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

■Dong Hwa Catering
Address: 140-2 Saito-cho, Shijo-sagaru, Nishi-Ishigaki-Dori, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
Access: about 5 minutes walk from "Gion-Shijo Station

HP:https://www.tohkasaikan.com/

■Fune Hashiya

Lastly, I would like to introduce you to an old-fashioned candy store that is well-known for its"The Ship Chandler."。
Speaking of candy shops, it was fun to pick out candy before field trips! There may be episodes of, "What? I wonder if the young people of today would be like, "Hmm?
This store was established in 1938 in Shijo-Kawaramachi, Kyoto, not far from Fujii Daimaru, and has a history of over 80 years by rough calculation. It is loved not only by local children but also by foreign tourists.
We have a large selection of crazy candy that will make anyone's eyes sparkle, from rare and famous candy that you can't find anywhere else.

○Attractiveness of Funahashiya

1. Lots of nostalgic candy!

Funahashiya is located near the Shijo-Kawaramachi intersection, and can be enjoyed with children on the way home from shopping or sightseeing.
There are more than 2,000 items in the candy store, ranging from the usual candy such as ramune, surume, chocolate, etc. to masks, super balls, windmills, marbles, tokidashi (marbles), and hand balls, all of which are typical of candy stores.
The author personally recommends "educational confectionery. Sushi, bread, doughnuts, etc... You can learn through the experience of imagining and making sweets.
They are popular among children from kindergarten to elementary school age because they are sweets made using their hands. There are a variety of varieties available, so be sure to pick one up.

2.The ____ at the checkout is great!

When you buy candy, we would like you to take a look at the checkout.
The shopkeepers know the price of every candy bar by heart and do the calculations as if they were doing speedy mental arithmetic. It is not a modern method, but it is a must-see because the checkout is done quickly with tremendous mental arithmetic skills. Even when the shop is crowded with children on school excursions, they are incredibly fast!
The friendly service that offers hospitality to all is sure to make you feel excited and happy just by visiting the restaurant.

Wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

■Fune Hashiya
Address: 570 Nakano-cho, Teramachi-Dori Ayakoji-Sagaru, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto City
Access: about 5 minutes walk from Shijo-Kawaramachi Station

HP:http://www.funahashiya.jp/

■ Summary

Retro spots" are places where the nostalgia of the past sticks with the generation that knows the good old days, and makes the younger generation feel fresh. Temples and shrines in Kyoto are also atmospheric, but you should visit places where you can catch a glimpse of the daily life and culture of that era, and experience something that sightseeing alone cannot provide.